2014-04-19

Four Paris restaurants worth a Metro ride

Mark Bittman of the New York Times writes: 
“I set out to explore some of the farther-flung alternatives. I concentrated on the increasingly energetic northeast quadrant of the city, namely the 10th, 18th (generally speaking, Montmartre), 19th (around the park of Buttes Chaumont) and 20th (which contains the Belleville neighborhood) Arrondissements. They’re in neighborhoods you might not get to otherwise, the food is good and in some instances fantastic, and the prices are way below average.”
Baratin, 3, rue Jouye-Rouve (20th); 01-43-49-39-70. An average meal for two (or, that is to say, a big one) is 70 euros, though you could eat much more cheaply. 
Philou, 12, avenue Richerand (10th), 01-42-38-00-13. An average meal for two can run as little as 48 euros, or as much as 68 euros. philoubistro.canalblog.com
Table d’Eugène, 18, rue Eugène Sue (18th); 01-42-55-61-64. Lunch can be as little as 34 euros for two, dinner can run to 68 euros, but you could spend less. latabledeugene.com
Le Verre Volé, 67, rue de Lancry (10th), 01-48-03-17-34. An average meal for two could be had for 52 euros, but many people will spend more. leverrevole.fr


Read the full article hereNote: Descriptions and prices are as of 2011. 

2014-02-05

Top 10 budget restaurants and bistros in Paris

Paris is home to some of the world's finest – and priciest – restaurants. But a new breed of affordable places to eat means the budget traveller needn't feel hard done by. The UK Guardian newspaper picks 10 places where you can dine on excellent French cuisine for €20 a head.

Bistrot Victoires
• 6 rue La Vrillière, 1st arrondissement, +33 1 42 61 43 78. Open daily for lunch and dinner, average two-course meal €20. Métro: Palais-Royal-Musee-du-Louvre, Pyramides or Sentier

Boco
• Boco Opéra, 3 rue Danielle Casanova, 1st arr, +33 1 42 61 17 67, boco.fr. Other branches at Bercy-Village and Saint-Lazare. Open Monday to Saturday for lunch and dinner, average three-course meal €20

Breizh Café
• 109 rue Vieille du Temple, 3rd arr, +33 1 42 72 13 77, breizhcafe.com. Open all day Wednesday to Sunday, closed for three weeks in August, average €15. Métro: St-Sébastien-Froissart

La Cantine de la Cigale
• 124 boulevard Rochechouart, 18th arr, +33 1 55 79 10 10, cafelacigale.com. Open Monday to Saturday for breakfast, lunch and dinner, average two-course meal €20. Métro: Pigalle, Abbesses or Anver

L'Ilot
• 4 rue de la Corderie, 3rd arr, +33 6 95 12 86 61, no website. Open Tuesday to Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday dinner only, average two -course meal €20. Métro: Temple, République or Filles du Calvaire

Frenchie to Go
• 9 rue du Nil, 2nd arr, no phone, frenchietogo.com. Open Tuesday-Saturday 8am-6pm, with lunch from 12-4pm, breakfast served all day, average €15. Métro: Sentier or Strasbourg-Saint-Denis.

Le Petit Clerc
• 129 rue Saint-Dominique, 7th arr, +33 1 47 05 46 44, fontainedemars.com. Open daily for lunch and dinner, average two-course meal €20. Métro: École Militaire or Pont de l'Alma (RER C)

Le Richer
• 2 rue Richer, 9th arr, no phone, facebook page. Open daily 8am-1am, average lunch €15, average dinner main course €16. Métro: Cadet or Grands Boulevards

La Pointe du Groin
• 8 rue de Belzunce, 10th arr, no phone or website. Open all day Monday-Saturday, average €20. Métro: Gare du Nord or Poissonnière

A la Biche au Bois
• 45 avenue Ledru-Rollin, 12th arr, +33 1 43 43 34 38, no website. Open Tuesday to Friday for lunch and dinner, Monday dinner only, main courses from €17, prix fixe three-course meal €29.50. Métro: Gare de Lyon

Read the full Guardian article here.

2012-09-21

Vélib bike-share, bike rentals and Paris Respire


It is counterintuitive that Paris, the host city of the Tour de France finish line, was ever not a bicycling capital, but until it got a bike-share program — and an expanded network of bike lanes — cycling was not a mainstream mode of transportation there. Now it’s de rigueur, thanks to the Vélib’ system’s more than 20,000 bikes at 1,800 stations. The Vélib’ app, available on iTunes, tells you where to find the nearest station and the number of bikes there. And at a little more than $2 a day, the price is hard to beat. (Bring your American Express card, though; Vélib’ machines are not compatible with Visas and MasterCards that do not have a European chip.)

For a slightly less bulky ride, the day trips at Fat Tire Bike Tours (011-33-1-56-58-10-54) come with a city cruiser. A charming, 1980s-inspired store in the 18th Arrondissement, Vélo Vintage (011-33-6-13-13-42-27) refurbishes yesteryear’s beauties plucked from the French countryside. And there is no shortage of high-end shops: the museumlike biCyCle Store Paris (011-33-9-51-61-68-29) stocks everything from California cruisers to lowriders; Cyclope (011-33-1-43-55-47-34) is for the fixie-obsessed; and Bicloune (011-33-1-42-77-58-06) is packed with bikes of all shapes.

If you have only one day to do Paris by bike, make it a Sunday, when a city program called Paris Respire (“Paris Breathes”) closes some of the loveliest areas to cars, including Montmartre, the Marais and some roads along the Seine. For spectacle, time your trip to coincide with a Béret Baguette ride, in which Parisians put a very French twist on London’s Tweed Run: bérets, Breton stripes, vintage Peugeots and a picnic of baguettes, brie and wine in the Bois de Vincennes.

2012-09-16

Top 10 Paris wine bars


Albion

Not far from the Gare du Nord, and perfect for a pre- or post-Eurostar meal, Albion is run by English chef Matthew Ong and Kiwi barman Hayden Clout, who used to work at the popular Fish La Boissonnerie. Here in the scruffy but rapidly gentrifying 10th arrondissement, Clout offers a monthly selection of wines, while Ong cooks up worldly eats such as vichyssoise with oysters, and orange and lemon curd tart.

Address 80 rue du Faubourg-Poissonnière, 10th arrondissement (+33 1 42 46 02 44; restaurantalbion.com). Closed Sunday and Monday. Cost €40pp, with two glasses of wine

Le Dauphin

Many of the city's best young chefs are opening wine bar annexes – this, one of the most notable, by Inaki Aizpitarte, is a few doors down from his bistro Le Chateaubriand. An international crowd throngs the sleek U-shaped bar. Teamed with the first-rate wine list is an edgy menu of small plates that changes almost daily, from snails and cabbage to buttermilk-and-olive-oil ice cream.

Address 131 avenue Parmentier, 11th (+33 1 55 28 78 88). Closed Sunday and Monday. Cost €45pp, with two glasses of wine. Reservations essential.

Le Verre Volé

Dauntingly popular, this hipster spot near the pretty Canal Saint-Martin is considered by many the best new-style wine bar in Paris. It was recently expanded, making it marginally easier to bag a table – reservations are de rigueur, and when you arrive check out the wine bottles on display, library-style, on open shelves. Don't miss the lamb and fig terrine and excellent cheeses.

Address 67 rue de Lancry, 10th (+33 1 48 03 17 34; leverrevole.fr). Open daily. Cost €40pp, with two glasses of wine

Vivant Table

As well known for his elaborately tattooed arms as his love of organic and natural wines, Swiss-born Pierre Jancou worked at La Crèmerie on the Left Bank before launching popular Racines. "I love places with history," says Jancou, whose latest address is a small shop that once sold exotic birds. Dishes such as foie gras with artichoke salad and grilled poularde with organic baby vegetables are typical.

Address 43 rue des Petites Ecuries, 10th (+33 1 42 46 43 55). Closed Saturday and Sunda. Cost €40pp, with two glasses of wine.

Frenchie Bar à Vins

Chef Gregory Marchand's wine-bar annex to his bistro Frenchie offers a great opportunity to sample his cooking without the ordeal of trying to book a table at the restaurant. Expect tantalising small plates such as an earthy terrine de campagne with country bread and smoked trout with cucumber, pickled onions and garlic flowers. Sommelière Laura Vidal manages one of the most interesting wine lists in Paris right now.

Address 6 rue du Nil, 2nd (no phone, no reservations; frenchie-restaurant.com). Closed Saturday and Sunday. Cost €40pp, with two glasses of wine.

Juvenile's

This friendly and reliably convivial wine bar in the heart of Paris is a terrific place to have a gab with a band of vinophile expats. Scots proprietor Tim Johnston raised eyebrows when he was just about the first to pour Australian wines in Paris but is best known locally for a superb offering of Rhône Valley wines by the glass. Haggis is always on the menu, along with terrific British farmhouse cheeses and charcuterie plates.

Address 47 rue de Richelieu, 1st (+33 1 42 97 46 49). Closed Sunday and Monday lunchtime. Cost €40pp, with two glasses of wine.

Les Papilles

Bertrand Bluy's bistrot à vins has become a Latin Quarter institution with an international and often academic crowd. At noon you can pop in for a glass of wine and a quick bite, but in the evening reservations are necessary to sample the value-for-money €33 prix-fixe menu by chef Ulric Claude. Dishes include pumpkin soup with tiny croutons, lardons, chives and shavings of raw chestnut, and panna cotta with stewed reine-claudes.

Address 30 rue Gay-Lussac, 5th (+ 33 1 43 25 20 79; lespapillesparis.fr). Closed Sunday and Monday. Cost €45pp, with two glasses of wine.

Les Fines Gueules

Near the Louvre, this popular bistrot à vins has a fine setting in a handsome 18th-century stone house. The menu sources from the best producers in Paris, including butter from Breton Jean-Yves Bordier, and meat from star butcher Hugo Desnoyer. Typical dishes include pork loin with wild mushrooms and Jacques Genin's airy Paris-Brest (hazelnut cream-filled choux pastry).

Address 43 rue Croix des Petits Champs, 1st (+33 1 42 61 35 41; lesfinesgueules.fr). Open daily. Cost €45pp, with two glasses of wine.

Verjus Wine Bar

Americans-in-Paris Braden Perkins and Laura Adrian formerly ran the Hidden Kitchen supper club before opening a restaurant and sister wine bar last winter. This cosy vaulted place behind the Palais Royal is only open in the evenings but pulls an interesting crowd. Bar snacks include buttermilk-battered fried chicken and a butterscotch budino that partners their dessert wines perfectly.

Address 47 rue Montpensier, 1st (no phone; verjusparis.com). Closed Saturday and Sunday. Cost €35pp, with two glasses of wine.

Willi's Wine Bar

After opening his popular wine bar in front of the Palais Royal 32 years ago, Englishman Mark Williamson, who has probably had a bigger influence on what Parisians drink today than almost anyone else, is completing a major expansion. What's unlikely to change is the international crowd, the brilliant selection of wines by the glass and a menu that follows the seasons with dishes such as quail breast on salad leaves with spiced nectarines.

Address 13 rue des Petits Champs, 1st (+33 1 42 61 05 09; williswinebar.com). Closed Saturday dinner and Sunday. Cost €45pp, with two glasses of wine.